Awww, Filipino public transport

There are many forms of public transport in the Philippines. The most infamous is the jeepney. Oh look, here’s one now.

This one was paid for by Carmi, probably a family member.

Oh, and another…

This one is owned by two brothers. See the front hood.

They look a bit scary, a bit menacing, and at night they glow as they roll down the street. They each tell their own history in their paint job, and they are facinating to look at. They cost about 10 cents to get across town in Cabanatuan City, but jeepneys are everywhere in the Philippines.

John in slightly more packed jeepney. It will get a lot more full before our ride is over.

Some footage from one ride in San Jose Antique.

There is also the tricycle, and lucky for me Cabantuan City is the tricycle capital of the Philippines with over 3,000 registered tricycles. On this trip though I am riding along the coastal edge on the island of Panay between San Jose Antique and some natural hot springs to the south. Seriously, if I had a “best of” blog this road would be in it.

Here is John haggling with a tricycle driver.

This is a public bus used for longer distances.

And, when all public transport fails, just take a carabao.

Ahhh yes, the faithful carabao.

Welcome to “Kiva Country”!

“Kiva Country” is what ASKI-MFI (Alalay sa Kaunlaran, Inc.) staff like to call the Isabella Province, the region where their Kiva borrowers live and work. ASKI MFI is a new Kiva partner in the Philippines. Their headquarters are in Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija about 3 hours north of Manila (10 hours, if there is traffic, ). They’ve been working hard on their Kiva Partnership, and are growing quickly. Beyond microfinance, ASKI also it’s clients other needed benefits and programs such as life and health insurance, educational scholarships, business training, etc.

As a Kiva Fellow with a new partner, my job is to document everything, verify clients, and bring this information to the Kiva team and to Kiva lenders. I am so excited to be able to bring Kiva’s first field visit with ASKI-MFI to you.

To lend to current Kiva ASKI borrowers in need of loans, click this link:  Kiva Fundraising loans at ASKI MFI

To learn more about ASKI Microfinance Institution and their numerous poverty alleviating programs, please visit http://www.aski.com.ph/

Teresa Dunbar just finished her Kiva Fellowship with ASKI MFI, Cabanatuan, Philippines. She’s been a Kiva Fellow since August 2008 with MFI’s in Cambodia and the Philippines. She previously worked for The Christensen Fund, promoting bio-cultural diversity resilience. She holds a BA in Cultural Anthropology and Spanish.

Giving CREDIT where it’s due

CREDIT Microfinance Institution, Kiva’s oldest partner in Southeast Asia, and 7th oldest in its portfolio of partners celebrated its third year on Kiva May 3rd, 2009. As one of Kiva’s oldest partners, they have received over $3.1m in loans, making it the most invested MFI in Kiva’s portfolio of MFIs. Through the generosity of over 48,500 Kiva lenders, over 4150 of CREDIT’s clients have received loans ranging from $100 to $1200 helping them run businesses, fix homes, educate their children, supply daily needs, and ultimately enabling them to build a higher standard of living for themselves and their families.

To celebrate CREDIT’s third year, I have put together a retrospective video of my time with them on their work in the office and in the field.

Thank you to the tens of thousands of Kiva lenders for investing in CREDIT MFI’s clients and supporting CREDIT MFI over the years. The journey has just begun…

To invest in current Kiva CREDIT-MFI borrowers in need of loans, please click this link

Kiva Fundraising loans at Credit MFI

To learn more about CREDIT MFI please visit CREDIT’s website

Teresa Dunbar was a Kiva Fellow with CREDIT MFI from August 2008 – February 2009. During her time there she became increasingly interested in the daily struggles of Cambodia’s peoples. Her interests include; land rights, livelihood and environmental protection, government and business transparency, and the rule of law, and how each affects the viability of microfinance.

When in San Fernando, Philippines do as the Romans did

In central Luzon, Philippines Catholicism is considered the local religion, thanks (or un-thanks) to the Spanish who brought it over in 1565. During Holy Week (the week before Easter, beginning with Palm Sunday), you can see numerous processions through the streets and acts of penitents. People walk through the streets performing the Stations of the Cross complete with cross carrying and images of Jesus during his life and last moments. Throughout barangays (neighborhoods) mournful chanting can be heard pouring out of local churches with the help of microphones from 6am until about midnight. At work, one can also hear co-workers talk about their daily fasting.

Night procession in Talavera, Nueva Ecija, Philippines

In San Pedro, Cutud, their expression of devotion is taken even further and has become famous world-wide. Every Good Friday, people in San Pedro Cutud re-enact what is called Jesus’ Passion and Death. The annual ritual started in 1962, and has continually grown over the years. It includes self-flagellation for some, and for others actual crucifixion (taken down before death occurs). The self-flagellating penitents cover their heads with pieces of cloth, wear a crown made of twigs and palm, and whip themselves with leather straps embedded with glass shards weighed down by bamboo sticks as they walk through the streets. It is quite gruesome and for an uninformed observer, such as myself, it can get quite messy as blood is flung at you (by accident) as the penitents pass-bye.

Those who chose crucifixion wait in line at the base of the man-made Calvary Hill. They are brought up, some in costume, others in simple jeans. They are nailed to a wooden cross and the cross is raised. Once the cross is raised, their feet are nailed, and sometimes their sides are pierced. The acts are not endorsed by the Catholic church, and the Philippines health officials urge people to get tetanus vaccinations and keep “well-maintained” whips to protect their health.

This year it was about 98 degrees as the sun beat down on the somewhere between 30,000 – 80,000 spectators (depending the source). Spectators included vendors of all kinds, film crews, Filipino families, and yes a few foreigners. I read that about 18 people were actually crucified that day in Cutud, but dozens of others were crucified in two other locations (around 70 in total), and about 500 men and boys performed self-flagellation. For many locals though, it was a time to make some much needed money as they offered rides in their tricycles and sold cold drinks to the hot and thirsty crowds. Micro-finance is always at work.

Here’s a short video I put together of my experiences that day
(Warning: may be graphic for some, and please do not attempt this at home.)

Time Flies when One Fries Tilapia

I’ve been here a month already. Wow, time flies in Cabanatuan City, Philippines when you are busy. I’ve been working with ASKI-MicroFinance Institution, and I’ve been over-whelmed by their generosity and hospitality. They found me a lovely apartment that is far too big for one person, and I’ve found the local farmer’s market, and an aerobics class that keeps me sane and entertained at the same time. I just love it when my gay male aerobics instructor sings, “I’m your private dancer,” as I do sit-ups.

I’ve been volunteering with Kiva for nine months now, and have come to understand only the tip of microfinance. What I do know is that ASKI-MFI has their act together. They work hard and not only see their borrowers as clients, but as partners in their business. They work to help each person succeed while maintaining a strong business standard and progressive loan products. They offer finance classes, management classes, insurance products, agriculture loans, individual loans, group loans, family counseling, etc. This is all quite different than my experience in Cambodia where it seemed the bottom-line mattered most, which is true in some respects, but is debatable.

On a personal note, I am struggling with being present, enjoying the here and now. I have a lot on my mind as I still put together my learning experience from Cambodia and worry about my future as I search for a job. I also keep comparing my current circumstance to other places I’ve been, and need to realize that each place simply is.

Cabanatuan City so far is a place in between Manila (4 hours north) and the famous rice terraces of the Sierra Madre mountains (about 7 hours south). It is a city of 260,000 people, and I seem to be the only foreigner. Because of this people love to stare at me, and I’m trying to adjust to it, but it is difficult most of the time. I’ve been warned that the Philippines can be dangerous and women usually do not go out by themselves. This keeps me from experiencing the city most days. I wish this wasn’t the case. It is hot and somewhat humid. And even though it is currently the dry season, it rains once in awhile. People blame global climate change. The air is quite polluted due to the numerous jeepneys (extended jeeps used as local buses) and tricycles (a motorbike with a modified side-car) here. Cabanatuan City is called the tricycle capital of the Philippines with about 30,000 registered. I am getting used to the food, and have come to find that I do not like bitter melon, but find the mangoes amazing. I’ve been cooking most of my own meals. People are super friendly and love to joke around. They also love karaoke, and when I say “love” I mean nearly every house has a karaoke machine and they are not afraid to use it, be it 5pm or 5am, and Air Supply seems to the band of chose.

So these are some first impressions so far. I feel lucky to be here, but I also find myself finally getting homesick a bit.

I’ve included some footage from my first tilapia dinner. Welcome to my new world.

Some travelin’

Before I arrived in the Philippines, I took some time off from my Kiva duties for some travels. I headed into Vietnam, up along the eastern coast, across to Laos, and then to Malaysia. Here are some photos and footage I’d like to share with you.

Hoi An, Vietnam (i.e the tailor town)

The old city and fishing boats on the Thu Bon river

The beautiful laterns of Vietnam

learning her family's tailoring craft or child labor? I'll let you decide.

Yummy road-side noodles.

Hue, Vietnam (i.e. The Imperial City)

The colorful incense

a few motorbike rides

The Imperial City

another amazing meal, the owner just kept feeding us.

The train north to Hanoi, Vietnam

I think it took 12 hours?

The busy streets

Farewell Vietnam

Off to Laos! We really wanted to cross by land, but we ran out of time. Next time I’ll give myself at least a year

Oh shit, is it really a prop plane!

Welcome to Laos

Luang Prabang, Laos

The land of monks

and large Buddhas

local transportation

candles, flowers, and incense all essential for prayer

Does that say Steambath? Oh hell ya, I'm in.

the land of temples

And mahout training…

me, the real mahout, and our elephant

a little nervous

Crossing a mighty river

Here they come! So beautiful, graceful, and massive.

kayak trip down a might Mekong tributary

back to Cambodia and onto Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

reflections of a Malay rainstorm

Petronas Towers, the world's tallest twin-towers

This picture is taken from the backside of the Petronas Towers while meandering through an Islamic Malay community. They had some darn good street food in this neighborhood.

Menara Kuala Lumpur w/ Petronas Towers in the background

Malacca (or Melaka), Malaysia

Chinatown

One of the oldest Buddhist temples in Malaysia

prayers for the dead

Happy Buddha

Adverts, "Mmmmm, 'plus surprising bits', I'll take two."

OK, off to my next Kiva gig in the Philippines. See ya there.

Tarantula, Dog, or Duck Fetus, Po Teresa(”Ms. Teresa” in Tagalog)?

Being a Kiva Fellow in Southeast Asia you meet many small business owners. Some of these business owners sell what I like to call “culinary adventures”. So as not to offend people, you also get a chance to try many of the dishes. Over the course of my seven months, I’ve discovered after a while to stop asking what it is, and just try it. Some have left their impressions on me though, and I thought I’d share them with you.

Let’s see, in Cambodia you have fried tarantula and various bugs such as beetle, cricket, and bee larva. The most delicious and famous ones come from the Kampong Cham region, northeast of Phnom Penh. You can get them on the side of the road as you motorbike by, or at any local street market.

love, love, love me some good tarantula!

You also have dog. This dish was bought for me by Rong, a Cambodian friend. He told me, “You have to try it since you don’t have it in the US, and after you try it, you must text me what you think.” I was told that dog is a meat that makes you warm. It is eaten mainly by men and coupled with beer. The best dog restaurant in Phnom Penh is just east of the Boung Keng Kong Market.

And I did have a beer or two with it. It just went down better with a beer. My stomach is still upset just thinking about it.

You also have boiled duck fetus eggs called “pong tea koun”. Fortunately, I only had one opportunity to eat it, and my Cambodian friends at CREDIT-MFI let me slide on that one as I watched them chow-down. As they pulled the fetus from its shell, I could see the partially formed baby duck complete with head, neck, beak, and wings. It was explained to me that you can buy “pong tea koun” at different fetus stages, a few days old to 2-weeks old. It all depends on your taste. It was the nastiest looking thing I had ever seen someone eat. It is said that they give you strength and energy.

Now, Khmer and Filipino cuisines do not have much in common, but they do seem to share the same love for boiled duck fetus eggs. In Tagalog, it is called “Balut”, and unfortunately, this time my Filipino friends at ASKI-MFI would not take, “No” for an answer.

Now, if you eat “balut” like a lady, you don’t pull the embryo out of the shell, you eat it bit by bit with a little spoon so you don’t have to actually see what you are eating. Lucky for me, the ladies at ASKI-MFI eat “balut” like men which is what they required of me. To eat “balut” like a man, you pull the entire fetus out of its shell in order to see the almost formed fetus duck body . It usually takes about 2-3 bites to completely eat.

Balut, see the fetus duck head on the right?

Needless to say my “culinary adventures” continue. I will be in Cabanatuan City, Philippines with ASKI-MFI for the next three months bringing you Kiva client stories and blogs. Hope you enjoy them, I am off to lunch now. Hmmmmm, should I have goat or more balut?

In the Philippines

So after 6 months in Cambodia as a Kiva Fellow, and some travels through Vietnam, Laos, and Malaysia, I’ve finally arrived in the Philippines for my next Kiva Fellowship stint.

at Clark Airport

I will be here for the next 3 months with ASKI-MFI. ASKI-MFI is a new Kiva field partners so I’ll be helping them set-up their Kiva processes, train ASKI staff, and interview Kiva clients in the field. I will be located in Cabanatuan City, Central Luzon, Philippines, but will be traveling around mainly through northern Luzon in Isabella province, the grain basket of the Philippines.

I’ve already been busy, and have so much work cut out for me. Actually, the day after I landed I woke-up at 5am for an 8am meeting in Manila with the head of the Microfinance Council of the Philippines. It was quite an interesting meeting, as I got the lay of the land regarding microfinance in the Philippines. Acronyms were flying all around the table, along with a lot of questions.

left to right: Teresa Dunbar (Kiva Fellow), Zoraida Libunao (ASKI-MFI), Emmeline Ardeno(ASHI-MFI), Edgardo Mercedes (Head of MCPI), John Briggs (Kiva Fellow) at the MCPI office.

Khnom neung neuk neak Kampuchea (I will miss you, Cambodia).

“Aukun trang bong, srey, po on pro, neung Kampuchea. Khnom joljet na Kampuchea neung khnom ot dau tay. Khnom neung neuk neak.” (Thank you elders, sisters, my brothers, and Cambodia. I feel strongly about each of you and I don’t want to go. I will miss you.”)

“Cambodia is a place that frustrates you to the point of screaming, and a place that makes you smile out of pure joy. It is a place that just does not seem fair, and a place that is really true. It is beautiful and ugly, harsh and luscious. It is everything.” –I made that statement months ago, but had to say it again. It is the closest I’ve come to describing Cambodia in words so far.

Over the past six months in Cambodia as a Kiva Fellow, I have found inspiration and have held my head in tears. I have found kindness and confusion. I’ve been confronted by an un-deserved privilege and have been cared for by those deserving more privilege. And yes, I still find it “mind-boggling”.

And while I learned about the everything-ness of Cambodia, I met people and had experiences that will stay with me forever.

Some of my favorite people and places:

Kiva Fellows on Obama's election Day (left to right: me, John, Sanjaya, Kieran

my brothers at CREDIT-MFI

Boung Kak Lake at sunset with Matt and Tim (see the rainbow in the background?)

My friend Rong and his 6 hour old baby boy. So amazing!

Vatana, my friend and best tuk-tuk driver in Phnom Penh

The green of rice fields and traditional silted houses

Tuol Sleng Musuem - children executed by the Khmer Rouge

The children and when they yell, "helloooooo" as you pass by.

Kiva clients, weaving Khmer silk for traditional dress

Kiva clients, piece seamstresses for garment factories (This client is an amazing women!)

Cambodian women love to wear pajamas all day long!

Psaa Toul Tom Poung (Russian Market)

Psaa Toul Tom Poung: Meat vendors

Dey Krahorm residents on celebration day

Demolition of Dey Krahorm 3 days later

Angkor Wat, the largest man-made religious structure in the world

Rice season

Koh Rung Samloem (aka Lazy Beach)

Drinking in old dilapidated french colonial mansions

"Same Same, but Different" movie set; an actress playing a Khmer hooker.

And of course, the food.

Fried tarantula, yum!

Dey Krahorm Evictions: Tears of Frustration

I returned to Dey Krahorm Saturday morning to its destruction. Completely overwhelmed and disgusted by government and private development land grabbing at the expense of the poor and powerless in Cambodia,  I snuck in behind the police guard gates and took pictures of what I could.

Please clicks the link below for articles from the Phnom Penh Post and the BBC regarding the evictions. They offer more context than I can offer in this blog.

City, developer demolish Dey Krahorm homes

Cambodian slum dwellers evicted

Here are some of the photos I took that morning.

Residents look on at the demolition of Dey Krahorm

children play as people gather their lives

walking around in rubble and sewage

Government ministry building (built 2007), white tenements (built 1964), Dey Krahorm rubble (destroyed 2009)

something to sleep on.

packing up what is left

everything and the kitchen sink

kids carting their belongings as a Land Rover looks on (since it lacks a license plate, it usually means a gov't vehicle)

and when adults in an SUV won't help, your other 8 year old friends do.

"Where do we live now?"

police on patrol

protest banner rolled-up, as the struggle for rights continues

As I took pictures, tears ran down my face at the inhumanity of the situation. I officially broke down as I saw the Land Rover pass the children by as they pulled the cart with their family’s belongings. On top of the situation, a few days earlier, by chance I visited the area where many of the families who had lived in Dey Krahorm and the surrounding area (this land struggle has been going on for years) will be living. I went to interview some residents who had been displaced about 7 years ago who happened to be Kiva borrowers.  The area they lived in, and where the Dey Krahorm residents evicted this day will go, lacked basic necessities, including clean water, sanitation, and electricity, and most of all it lacked livelihood options since it is lies on the far outskirts of Phnom Penh.

On a personal note: I get emotional revisiting these photos and the images that I did not capture on film that day. The people in Cambodian and their struggle for rights has been burned into my heart.