In central Luzon, Philippines Catholicism is considered the local religion, thanks (or un-thanks) to the Spanish who brought it over in 1565. During Holy Week (the week before Easter, beginning with Palm Sunday), you can see numerous processions through the streets and acts of penitents. People walk through the streets performing the Stations of the Cross complete with cross carrying and images of Jesus during his life and last moments. Throughout barangays (neighborhoods) mournful chanting can be heard pouring out of local churches with the help of microphones from 6am until about midnight. At work, one can also hear co-workers talk about their daily fasting.
Night procession in Talavera, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
In San Pedro, Cutud, their expression of devotion is taken even further and has become famous world-wide. Every Good Friday, people in San Pedro Cutud re-enact what is called Jesus’ Passion and Death. The annual ritual started in 1962, and has continually grown over the years. It includes self-flagellation for some, and for others actual crucifixion (taken down before death occurs). The self-flagellating penitents cover their heads with pieces of cloth, wear a crown made of twigs and palm, and whip themselves with leather straps embedded with glass shards weighed down by bamboo sticks as they walk through the streets. It is quite gruesome and for an uninformed observer, such as myself, it can get quite messy as blood is flung at you (by accident) as the penitents pass-bye.
Those who chose crucifixion wait in line at the base of the man-made Calvary Hill. They are brought up, some in costume, others in simple jeans. They are nailed to a wooden cross and the cross is raised. Once the cross is raised, their feet are nailed, and sometimes their sides are pierced. The acts are not endorsed by the Catholic church, and the Philippines health officials urge people to get tetanus vaccinations and keep “well-maintained” whips to protect their health.
This year it was about 98 degrees as the sun beat down on the somewhere between 30,000 – 80,000 spectators (depending the source). Spectators included vendors of all kinds, film crews, Filipino families, and yes a few foreigners. I read that about 18 people were actually crucified that day in Cutud, but dozens of others were crucified in two other locations (around 70 in total), and about 500 men and boys performed self-flagellation. For many locals though, it was a time to make some much needed money as they offered rides in their tricycles and sold cold drinks to the hot and thirsty crowds. Micro-finance is always at work.
Here’s a short video I put together of my experiences that day
(Warning: may be graphic for some, and please do not attempt this at home.)
